Sunday, October 5, 2014

Afternoon

Doesn't matter where I am rain does seem to get me to a low energy point.  Bill, the terrier, and are affecte by the barometer dropping.   As at home, when a storm starts up the seagulls come in.  We have noticed there are not a lot of seagulls in either of the costal towns we have been in Sicily.

After a light dinner we do the walk around , the sitting, at the plaza.  Then we stop for our nightly Lemoncello .   When I write it sounds like we are old but doing the walk, stopping and walking on it feels easy and a nice way to complete a day.   

I also have to say these older italian women out pace and outwalk me at a steady pace.   Sicilians do not make eye contact readily nor do they greet strangers easily but after I see the same ones on our walks I am breaking them down with greetings in Italian and waving to the ladies I see on their balconies in the afternoon.   I don't stare, rude, but glance, greet and smile.  So far no one has slapped   Me or sworn at me so I am good.

Tomorrow we might take a drive.

Grace and Bruce, the fashion plate.

Sunday

The cruise was confirmed cancelled this a.m so had breakfast, short visit with Mirko and back to the room to put dirty clothes together , clean ones together and I am not sure but just in case together.

Then about noon down to town.  Weather looked good so no jackets or umbrella not real sunny but not bad.   Greeted the couple at the cafe we ate at last night and decided to have our evening Lemoncello there this evening.   Half way down to the sea clouds, gray sky and big rain drops.  We  were near Bruce's favorite men's shop and bought an umbrella and a scarf for my head and the owner charged Bruce 5 euros so tomorrow or Tues we buy some cookies as a thank you for him.

Decided we wanted our big lunch overlooking the sea again so headed down to the resturants by the water and choose a different one.   Bruce wanted risotto with fungi, potatoes and something else.  I had pasta made on premises and a side of grilled italian sausage to go with the Marconi , eggplant , tomatoes and basil and it was so damn good.  Bruce likes rice as his family had it a lot and his dish was good but he did not swoon over it as I did mine.   Bruce then wanted dessert and decided on something he had never had pan a cotta with strawberry topping and then it was his turn to swoon.
I had an espresso to give me that pick me up I need. With lunch or dinner I usually have the house red and these wines are wonderful.   Not many times I can say a house white I have in the States is wonderful.   Even Bruce is enjoying the Sicilian red wines.

Began to rain almost back to the room so the scarf and umbrella good bets.  When we returned we greeted by Mirko, his parents and Bill the dog who just makes me laugh and he lets me give him lots of love-loves.

Bruce is once again swooning over food as he bought choc covered orange peels, the sweet with the tart , and he says better than choc covered orange strings as those are way sweeter than these.

Time to relax , take our shoes off until we go out later.

Our coughs have lessened but still here, Bruce's sinus attacks are fewer and our knees, feet and ankles are holding up but is because we go at our own pace.

Five days, Stella, lewis  and Miss Etta until we get home and love on you .

Grace and Bruce

Saturday, October 4, 2014

Sat

This morning we had a nice long conversation withMirko, the owner, of the B and B,  I think he is about 38 and talked about growing up in Cefula and Sicily.   He shared his passions, ideas you know the 38 , single and business is slow in the winter and I want to get away.  He asked for our address, etc. so if he goes to New York City next yr and, if he can, he would like to visit us.  So of course, and the easy thing is Mirko loves dogs, so this is a no brainer.

Guess what!  Today is rained, and rained.  Rain and it is still sooooo humid.  Mirko told us of a street market a short distance away, short walk.  He forgot to mention IT WAS STRAIGHT UP A HILL.   Thankfully the wLk happened before the rain.  The market was not just veggies and fruits but household goods, window treatment, name it they had it.

Before I forget.   This is for Shelby.   In this town and the one before you would have gone crazy with all the shoe stores and I am not kidding.  High , low, fancy, casual.  The Italians are in love shoes.

So , left the street market back down the rd to the start of old town.  Pizza and lemon soda, nice simple pizza. Fresh tomatoes, cheese and Parma ham.

Bruce decides that his suspenders do not function with his new shorts and wanted to go back to the same store with the owner who was so very nice to him.   Explained what Bruce wanted and the owner pulls out a boxes.   Either to small or too large.  The owner and Bruce decide on one as the owner tries to explain he can take care of it which he did.  I remember in my home town there was a men's store who had the punch to make new holes and tools to cut the leather then put the buckle back on and before we knew it the buckle fit.  Then Bruce wants another new shirt!!   So he picked the one he liked and Boom he bought it and that was it.  Bruce is going to be an Italian fashion plate on our return home.  

We decided to take the cruise to two of the Aeolian islands but when we got back from dinner tonight Mirko told us the cruise was cancelled due to the weather.   I was sure it would be as it thundered most of the day, Bruce said it would be a go.  am glad it was as I was not enthusited about the trip.

We decided to eat at a small place , down the hill, and at first I was not happy with the choice.  The food was so-so but the family was a real joy to be with.  Dad, mom, Georgia, university student, who wants to teach and Brian, teen age son.  As the dad explained, his cousins in the States have given all their children Italian names but the dad loves Irish names so he liked Bruce's name.

Tomorrow if the rain stays we will hang out here and rearrange the stuff in suitcases.

Six days and we will be hugging the dogs and Bruce can catch up on a months worth of tv programs.

The trip , overall, minus the driving is great.

I want the sun back


Grace and Bruce

Yesterday

Nice breakfast, a combination of English and Italian breakfast. Then out we went, since it is a long hill down first stop is for a lemon soda after that onto discovering a new town.   Hard to belief it was a first full day.  Bruce decided he wanted another pair of shorts as we sent a his one pair home .  So went into two men's store zip the third one the owner was great.   Bruce bought the shorts, then he decided on a shirt shocked me.

Onto a new hike down another hill in old town and decided it was time for lunch and we looked at one or two and finally I told Bruce to make a decision as we both had to use the toilette and he made a terrific one as the server took us down three, short , flight of steps to seating looking over the Med.
That was one WOW moment.   We watched the feral cats , not too many, walk around and people walking a paved path and they stopped, took a photo and walked out.   That is not enjoying the views to us as we sat for a long time just sighing about the sun and water.

Then a walk to the public beach and there was no shade so that was a short stay.  Looked for the theatre where one of my favorite all times movie was made, cinema paradiseo, it is a subtitled movie and is a tearful but happy also.   Didn't find it so made the long trip back to the B and B.  Played with Bill, the terrier, then back to the room to cool off and relax.  This time Bruce even took a nap.

Back out about 5:30 and walked found a neat place near the Dumo and I had fork tender beef and Bruce had a dynamic bowl of figoli soup.  The back to the room for a good night.

Thursday, October 2, 2014

It ain't Taormina

Well, we said goodbye to Salvatore, owner of the B and B in taromina and headed out to Cefula.   I must say the drive on the auto and was fairly easy as it was a straight shot to the turn off to Cefula and that is when we got hopelessly lost.  After 45 minutes trying to follow the Gps we called Mirko, the owner, and he sent his dad to rescue us.   GOOD THING AS WE WOULD HAVE NEVER FOUND THIS PLACE WITHOUT HIM!!!!!   The enterance is on the side of an apartment building then a huge enterway with no signs, an elevator, again No signs, three doors , one has Ma and Mi on it.  Walk into a 
Very modern living room and kitchen and met the owner, nice kid who talks faster than I do.

His dad made a welcoming drink for us which was very good and refreshing.  Then he opened a door to a hallway where there are six doors to the rooms.   Our room is small but very modern and a modern looking bathroom.   For those of us who go to Lynn's in Aberdeen, the wall behind the bed is the lime green in her salon which she said is a good luck color.  Hurrah.

A nice balcony where when you sit and look out you have a stunning view of the sea and one of the Aeolian islands.  Stand up and look down and you see junk so we will sit a lot on the balcony.

So Mirko tells us how to get to the city center, sort of like an old town, a short walk down a steep hill but we did  it.   Had an ok lunch then walked on to explore some of the area as we needed to get bearings.  Along with that I wanted to see the Domo ----of Cefula.   It is strange and stunning at the same time.   Iam sure the main alter and art work is Bystaine, and the church is cavernous.  I believe it is the oldest church we have been it and i felt uncomfortable.  The walls are empty, no candles burning
Very empty in many ways.  I am so used while in Italy to have churches all around which are small , intimate and newer(1400s).  

Ok, then we hike down hills, stop for coffee, geletto for Bruce and try to find something to bring back to the room as we are not doing the typical Italian dining which is about 7, anyway , not here cause of the walk and am not sure how safe this town is.   While in Taromina we did not see one person wearing the money around their necks.

Back up the hills to the room and after entering the living room, which is really the living room for guests and Mirko and his parents, we are greeted with barking from Bill, a smooth coated Terrier, which made me very happy.  Cute, happy dog who wanted to follow us to our room but Mirko would not let him.

Now we are deciding which Aeolian islands to visit and what day.   Then planning a day to see the village my moms parents were from.

Seven in the evening and we are in for the duration.

Grace and Bruce




Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Last night in Taromina

Slow easy day today .  Walked around some more discovered some ruins and a wall that had , at on time, shrouded bodies but now the wall is the back drop for a park like setting.

Found out by watching some tv here that Kevin Costner, Owen Wilson and Antino Bandaris all speak perfect Italian as we see them in commercials here.

Once again, our dates seem to be mixed up as I did not add the 9th to Cefula as I should have.  The last thing I want to do is spend an extra day in Palermo.   We have to get up at 3 am to catch the shuttle at 4 am.   We are not happy with that scheduling by the travel agent but she said it could not be changed as it went through the Adventi Travel group.

So, this is a beautiful area well worth a revisit.

Last leg tomorrow.

Grace and Bruce

Fun bus ride

Yesterday we took a two bus ride around the surrounding towns of Taormina and it was so much fun.
The bus is open sides and roof and I will add that every tour bus we have taken in Italy have seat belts.

As usual, the weather was beautiful .  The whole bus ride was a blast and the driver and guide young and fun.   First their was a recorded guide telling us about the different towns and when that was finished it went to Virgin radio where we listend to hard rock from 70 and 80s.  To me it seemed strange but the music worked as we roared down some of the high , high windy roads.  The drivers must passed some of test as they are buses pass each other with just inches between.

First town was Castelmola with a population about Westport.   This town sits high above Taormina this town is pre Hellenistic.   The streets are so narrow that about three can walk abreast .  The road leading up has beautiful hotels leading up and we watch people make that walk.   A stunning outdoor restaurant overlooks the sea, Taormina , mt Entna.  The wind was up so very warm that it did cool us down a bit.

Then back to Taormina to pick up and drop off people.  On to a resort area, beach , called Giardina Naxos.  This town directly overlooks the sea and is the first Greek colony in Sicily.  We did not have time to go to the archaeological areas but the beach was beautiful.  It was a fishing village up to about 30 yrs ago when tourism became the number money maker.    Sounds sort of similar to Westport.

The fishing here seems to be tuna, anchovies (I had marinated ones that were Wonderful) Bruce did not even want to look at them.

We then drove down to a town directly on the water that was just plain beautiful.  As a matter of fact this was an area that we would come back to stay.  Never again being gone for a month but ten days would be easy to do.   Pretty boats take visitors on tours of the bay's, there is a grotto where the water is emerald green to sapphire blue according to people we talked to yesterday.  Warm , warm and not to hot.

Then onto te last town called Letojanni which is a major tourist destination.  Again the beaches are white sand and very clean and well maintained.
This area was really discovered during the 50s as it really borders Taormina.   A Dr Hauser built a villa to house his patients many from Holloywood and Greta Garbo was a regular.

Then it was back to Taormina.  We discovered so much more here than we really knew and, again, just full of all kind of history from ancient to modern.

Before I forget, Oscar Wilde was a regular at this B and B we are staying at.  The who who's of Hollywood were regulars in this area ; Burt Lancaster, one of my favorite actors, the Burtons, Sophia,
Audery Hepburn a zillion .

This afternoon we happened on a restaurant and the inside walls were covered with photos of the owners with many notable Americans .   Senator Tom Harkin, Michael Douglas, American movie directors,  on and on.

So now we are back in the hotel to rest then back out for an early dinner as we leave tomorrow.

Yup, we would come back here.   We are learning so much about ourselves as travelers.  Like, no need to drive with all that anxiety as trains, taxis are great.

Plus, we have learned to take a roll of masking tape with us when we travel if we plan on shipping stuff home.

Tonight will be quite for us dinner and packing and trying not to be too anxiety ridden with the drive from here to Cefula.
Bruce is feeling some what better but not a whole bunch better.  So I am worried about his driving and stress level but his appetite is fine as he is eating his second piece of tarrone candy.

Grace and Bruce